Egregoros

not that hard. there's people that don't know shit about what's under the hood of their car that can change brake pads and rotors easily provided the rotor itself isn't rust welded to the wheel hub. all you really need is a jack, jack stands, wheel chocks so the car doesn't slide back when jacked or on the stands, a breakers bar, the right sockets, a mallet to break off the rust between the bake pads and rotor - or if that doesn't work, a gear puller that you can rent from the auto parts store for a deposit fee, the right clamp and a small plank of wood to depress the brake caliper piston carefully (watch a video on it), and a torque wrench so you can properly torque your bolts when your done to spec so nothing falls off or the threads don't get screwed up due to over-torqueing (chris-fix recommends using loctite threadlocker but there's people that say the bolts will be a bitch to remove without heat if you do that). just make sure to be careful with the brake lines because you can screw them up easily and don't leave your break calipers hanging unsupported. if there are two shitty philips head screws securing your rotor and they won't come off, just drill them out because the factory puts them on and they're totally unnecessary - just a sign that the rotors were never changed since the car was new. also, when you're done and you lower the car down, just be sure to pump the brake pedals to get the brake caliper piston in place to apply pressure between the pads and the rotor ,it will feel spongey at first on the brake pedal before it feels firm so have the parking brake engaged until then. also, don't forget to remove the protective anti-rust oil from the new rotors with brake clean before you install them or otherwise you won't have the necessary friction to stop.

note: this is also a great time to check your wheel bolts (the thing that holds the wheels and is secured by lug nuts) to see if the threads haven't been chewed up by retards cross-threading or over-torqueing them at the tire shop with the impact gun. replace those if they've been fucked up. also, always hand tighten your wheels back on in a star pattern before tightening them to spec making sur nothing is cross-threaded or asymmetrically aligned because that will also fuck up your bolts and lead to very rough and dangerous ride.

another note: make sure you install your rotors on the right side. most rotors have an "L" and "R" so that way the cooling fins can circulate incoming air properly and cool the rotors to prevent rotor warp which leads to rough braking.